Morocco 2010 trip report - To the summit of Toubkal
I woke up at 5 am to warm up some breakfast and to pack my backpack. Since I didn't have a chance to put up my tent and I didn't trust the Moroccan people the slightest bit hiding the backpack somewhere was the only option. Soon I found some big rocks on the opposite hill, hauled my backpack there and locked it up with the raincover / travel sack. At about 7 am I was ready to start climbing.
The steep start from the refuge
I saw some small groups with their guides on the opposite hill and tried to find my way to the start of the trail. From my 'camp' I had to make a small circle to cross a river and then along a snow field I was able to head for the actual path leading up. The way from the refuge starts off quite steeply and it's easy to slip in the scree. Some older people were struggling with the climb and I passed them fast. Another group was a bit higher on the first rocky parts and soon they were behind me too.
Mountains were shining behind just before I turned north.
For a while the way to the top curved between and over big rocks and boulders. A French-speaking pair of young men was exhausted and were having a break when I passed them. After the big rocks ended the scree started again. The path followed a river on its southern side and I could only see three people ahead of me. My plan was to ascend using the northern route and descend from the southern side. There seemed to be no path on the northern side but I wanted to try it anyhow. Soon after passing the last couple and their guide I crossed the river and continued climbing north across a biggish snow field.
It was a nice feeling to see everyone else taking the marked route and to be completely alone there on the northern side. I took my time with pictures and didn't feel like hurrying: the weather was perfect and I knew I had enough time to get down well before dark. On the way up I saw some interesting red stones and there was supposed to be a plane wreckage somewhere but I didn't spot it. The northern way up was quite steep and I was glad to have a pair of hiking poles with me. Sometimes I would scramble and climb some small boulders just for the fun of it.
It took maybe 30 minutes to climb to the ridge leading to the very top. From the ridge I saw some other paths on the other side of Toubkal and the rising sun brought colors everywhere where its rays hit. The sceneries from the last ridge were breath-taking and I saw the metallic structure marking the highest point already. A group of three people that had taken the southern route was already at the top and there was no reason for me to hurry.
Northern route is on the left up along the snow field. The summit of Toubkal is in the middle.
Views down from the northern route
There were strange red rocks lying on the ground.
The view from the north ridge leading to the summit was impressive.
Another angle from the north ridge
...and another
The summit was already in sight!
As soon as I made it to the top the guys there congratulated me and I congratulated them. I ate a bit and spent quite a while by just relaxing and taking a few pictures. The weather was sunny and clear but I'm glad I had a cap, a pair of gloves (actually two pairs, but I only used one) and a wind-proof jacket with a hood with me. All in all it took a bit more than two hours to get to the top from the refuge. The headache and high heart rate from last night were completely gone so it would seem that they weren't caused by acute mountain sickness.
Posing at the top.
The scenery on the eastern side of Toubkal was nice.
...and from this angle too
In about 20 - 30 minutes more people started appearing on the top, some more exhausted than the others. I decided to avoid the crowd and started half walking half running down. It was easier for my knees to just 'let go' and jump into small piles of scree every once in a while to slow down the speed. On the snow fields I did my best to slide down but it wasn't as easy as in Montenegro. After 50 minutes I was already on top of the first steep section and I found a beautiful field of snow right next to it. I sat down and let the gravity handle the rest. Later I would watch from my camp how people were struggling not to fall on the steep hill with all the scree. I think I saved 5 - 10 minutes by sliding down on my ass. And it was fun too!
Sliding kicks ass!
On the way back I had to cross a small but strong stream.
When I got down I realized that it wasn't even noon yet. I knew that I would easily make it back to Imlil the same day but I didn't feel like leaving the great mountains yet. I had bought a book in Tampere and still had a few hundred pages left so I knew what I would do. There was a nice boulder nearby giving some relief from the burning sun and I hid behind / under it. I even took a small shower with water bottles and washed my sweaty clothes. It would have been nice to have someone there to talk to but anyway it was a relaxing afternoon in a very beautiful valley.
It seemed like some quake player had been around.
This piece of rock could have been nice for bouldering too.
Not the worst place for spending an afternoon with a good book.
In the evening I cooked some stew and went to sleep under the amazing night sky with all its stars. Totally unaware of the problems I'd have really soon...
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